茶的好壞

烘焙對茶品質的影響

  通常茶葉是愈新愈有價值。譬如說包裝上已有標示十二個月等明確的品質保證期限,過了那段期間,品質就會出現變化。茶葉有光澤、新鮮的味道與香氣是新茶獨有的特色。可是過了品質保證期限,保存條件變差,茶葉會失去光澤、褪色,茶香也會消退減弱,茶湯水色變暗,味道也受到影響。茶葉的變質與茶葉所含的成分發生化學變化有關。

  未精製過的茶葉為毛茶(圖例一)。此階段茶葉中的水分、雜味、臭菁味未去除盡,且毛茶中尚夾雜老葉、黃葉、茶梗及雜質等,為提升茶葉的品質,須先去除老葉、黃葉、茶梗及雜質等,以降低這些物質對茶湯口感、風味的影響;此外,茶的單寧酸(多酚)或維生素C、脂質也會在保存過程中自然氧化。一旦氧化就會影響茶的顏色或味道,讓新茶失去特有的刺激性,產生彷彿日曬後走味的不新鮮氣味。而且,茶葉所含的胺基酸也會慢慢減少,使新茶的鮮味逐漸變淡。然而揀枝篩除費時、費力,在長時間的接觸空氣之下,必然吸收水分,其含水量相對增高,使茶葉的品質處於不穩的狀態;若不及時處理,勢必會促使茶葉內部產生發酵,再次引發氧化作用,造成茶葉變質、香氣散失、品質劣變等現象。

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圖例一:毛茶

  在烘焙過程中,茶葉內含物發生一系列的熱化反應,從而改善茶葉內質;通過焙火可以延長茶葉的儲藏壽命;同時,焙火可以滿足消費市場不同的口味需求。「生茶」與「熟茶」的差異,乍看之下與新茶與陳茶類似,其實卻是截然不同。這是表示部分發酵茶烘焙程度的說法,介於生茶和熟茶之間的稱為「半熟茶」。

  部分發酵茶通常以發酵程度分類,台灣將輕、中發酵茶定義為包種茶,重發酵茶是烏龍茶。烘焙是製茶最後階段進行的烘茶作業。去除多餘水分不光是為了保持品質,也是帶出溫潤美味的技術。烘焙程度依次數或花費的時間分為輕火、中火、重火,成品即俗稱的生茶、半熟茶、熟茶。

茶的好壞
backing icon01降低茶葉含水量,利於儲藏
  茶葉在儲藏過程中吸濕性很強,水分含量隨儲藏時間的增加不斷增高,若茶葉含水量超過10%將加速其陳化甚至黴變。因此,經過烘焙後,使含水量保持在3%~5%,可防止茶葉品質劣變,延長保質期。
backing icon03滿足市場對於不同烘焙程度的需求
  焙火程度從大的方向可以分為微火、輕火、中火、重火等,可根據不同的消費群體靈活掌握不同火侯,烘焙出適合不同消費市場的特色產品
backing icon02排除茶葉異味,提高品質
  茶葉品質不佳會有菁臭味及苦澀味,在儲藏過程中亦會產生陳味、膩味等不利於品質的異味。通過烘焙,可以減少甚至排除菁臭味及陳味、減輕苦澀味,提高茶葉品質。

backing icon04降低咖啡因含量
  咖啡因在高溫作用下,會從茶葉中昇華逸散至空氣中,遇到冷空氣又隨即凝固,便附著於烘焙用的焙籠上。透過焙火去除咖啡因的茶湯,相對顯得比較溫和甘甜。

茶的好壞
backing icon01降低茶葉含水量,利於儲藏
  茶葉在儲藏過程中吸濕性很強,水分含量隨儲藏時間的增加不斷增高,若茶葉含水量超過10%將加速其陳化甚至黴變。因此,經過烘焙後,使含水量保持在3%~5%,可防止茶葉品質劣變,延長保質期。
backing icon02排除茶葉異味,提高品質
  茶葉品質不佳會有菁臭味及苦澀味,在儲藏過程中亦會產生陳味、膩味等不利於品質的異味。通過烘焙,可以減少甚至排除菁臭味及陳味、減輕苦澀味,提高茶葉品質。
backing icon03滿足市場對於不同烘焙程度的需求
  焙火程度從大的方向可以分為微火、輕火、中火、重火等,可根據不同的消費群體靈活掌握不同火侯,烘焙出適合不同消費市場的特色產品

backing icon04降低咖啡因含量
  咖啡因在高溫作用下,會從茶葉中昇華逸散至空氣中,遇到冷空氣又隨即凝固,便附著於烘焙用的焙籠上。透過焙火去除咖啡因的茶湯,相對顯得比較溫和甘甜。

  茶葉烘焙之目的在降低含水率,改善茶葉品質,及提高茶葉之香氣。然而,不同之烘焙方式,會使茶葉內之化學成分發生變化,進而影響茶葉之品質。茶葉中的咖啡因(caffeine)含量約佔乾重之2%~5%,會隨烘焙溫度的升高而增加,兒茶素類則隨烘焙時間增長,而略為增加,之後隨烘焙溫度及次數增加,而有減少之趨勢。茶葉品質則會隨溫度的提高及烘焙時間的增長而變劣,茶葉色澤變暗沉焦黑,香氣由清香轉為烘焙味,滋味則帶有焦味及火味。

茶葉的質變

  自然環境中諸多因素,包括溫度、濕度、光線等,都可以引起茶葉成分氧化,造成其顏色發暗,香氣散失,味道不佳,影響飲用時的口感,甚至會影響到飲茶者的健康。

影響茶葉質變的因素主要有三種:

  光線:光線照射也會對茶葉產生不良影響,如果把茶葉放在日光下曬一天,則茶葉的色香味都會發生比較顯著的變化,從而失去其原有的風味和鮮度。因此,茶葉一定要避光儲藏,日常包裝材料也要選用能遮光的材料。茶葉中含有5-8﹪的脂肪,脂肪暴露在空氣中很快就酸化,氧化要有足夠的水做媒體,所以茶葉要包裝前一定要將水份降至5%以下,為什麼?我們將一粒茶葉放大,水份含量在3-4%時水成單分子層,空氣中的水進不來。

  當吸水至5%以上時,會有游離水,游離水會將氧帶進茶葉中,茶葉就會漸漸類變。當吸水超過6﹪時就會產生凝結水(毛細管水)在茶葉中形成一水道,氧氣流通快茶葉類變加速,這就是茶葉為何要再乾的原因。

  濕度:成品的茶葉有很強的吸濕性,空氣中的水分能夠輕易被吸收,只需要一天的功夫,其含水量便可達7%左右;如果放置五六天,便可上升到15%以上。一旦茶葉含水量超過10%,茶葉便會發霉,色香味俱失,不在適宜飲用。因此茶葉必須在乾燥的環境下保存,不能受水分侵襲。若不慎吸水受潮,輕者失香,重者霉變。此時不可將受潮的茶葉放在陽光下直接曝曬,而應把受潮的茶葉放在乾淨的鐵鍋或烘箱中用微火低溫烘烤,同時要不停地翻動茶葉,直至茶葉乾燥散發出香味。

  溫度:溫度能加快茶葉的自動氧化,使得茶葉的香氣、湯色、滋味等發生很大變化;溫度越高,變質越快,降低茶葉的品質。低溫保存,可以降低茶葉中各種成分的氧化過程,有效減緩茶葉變褐和陳化,一般以10℃左右儲存效果較好,如果溫度降到0℃-5℃,效果會更好。因此一般用冰箱冷藏通常是長時間保存茶葉的一個很好選擇。

  此外,還有茶葉吸收異味的問題。這是因為茶葉中含有高分子棕櫚酸和萜烯類化合物,這類物質生性活潑,廣交異味,即使茶葉裝在普通的包裝盒內,周圍如有香皂、樟腦、油漆、香菸、中草藥,還有印刷茶葉包裝的油墨和制盒用的化學粘合劑等等異味,它也會很快吸收這些異味,而失去原有的鮮爽清香味。

茶葉貯存的環境條件

在茶葉質變的原因中,已提到水分、溫度、氧、光等因數的綜合作用下均會影響到茶質變化,故茶葉從加工後,到飲用前的貯存中,應嚴格控制環境條件,具體要求如下:

1、庫房的基本要求。茶葉倉庫要防潮、避光、隔熱、防汙染,庫房周圍無異味,地勢高燥,排水方便,通風散熱方便,又可密閉遮光,庫內溫度不超過30度,相對溼度設法控制在20度以下,要專庫專用,不得混裝其它貨物。

2、防潮要求。首先要求貯存的茶葉含水量,要符合儲藏的標準,從科學的角度要求茶葉含水量應在3%,才能保持茶不變質。超過6%就容易“陳化”,所以茶葉貯存的含水量應控制在6%以下。其次,在陰雨天氣,庫房外面高溼、高溫的情況下,不得進貨取貨,庫房的門窗要封蔽,使倉庫保持陰涼、乾燥的環境。

3、避光要求。光線直接照射,會使茶葉中的葉綠素等化學成分,引起變色,並出現“日曬味”,降低茶葉的品質。即使在低溫及無氧條件下保鮮的茶葉,一旦受到強光照射,仍會使茶葉色澤劣變。所以,要求茶葉從加工後,到飲用前都要避光。

4、隔熱要求。高溫會使茶葉的內含物質氧化加快,促使茶葉“陳化”加快。所以在夏季高溫期間,要儘量保持倉庫裡的氣溫不超過30℃,還要採用既能隔熱又能密封的容器貯存茶葉,在這樣的環境中貯藏的茶葉,就能避開高溫對質量的影響。

5、防汙染要求。茶葉由於含有棕櫚酸和具有毛細孔多的結構,所以具有很強的吸附性。很容易把周圍的異味吸收到茶葉中。所以在儲藏保管時就要特別注意,不能與其他商品,特別是有味的商品存放在一起,更不能用有味的包裝材料包裝茶葉和不衛生的車輛運送茶葉。茶葉倉庫、茶葉加工廠,茶葉商店都要避開有味有毒氣體進行加工、貯存、經營。

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茶的好壞 茶的好壞 茶的好壞  茶的好壞  茶的好壞 茶的好壞 茶的好壞  茶的好壞

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Goodbye to You
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Goodbye my dear friend
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Who’s Afraid of the Big Bad Wolf
Who’s afraid of the big bad wolf
Big bad wolf
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Who’s afraid of the big bad wolf
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How Much is that Doggie?
How much is that doggie in the window? *(arf! Arf!)*
The one with the waggley tail
How much is that doggie in the window? *(arf! Arf!)*
I do hope that doggie’s for sale

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Two little eyes that open and close
two little ears and one little nose
Two tittle checks and one little chin
two little lips with the teeth close in

ABC’s Song
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H I J K L M N O P
Q R S and T U V
W and X Y Z
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Goodbye to You
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Who’s Afraid of the Big Bad Wolf
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How Much is that Doggie?
How much is that doggie in the window? *(arf! Arf!)*
The one with the waggley tail
How much is that doggie in the window? *(arf! Arf!)*
I do hope that doggie’s for sale

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Two tittle checks and one little chin
two little lips with the teeth close in

ABC’s Song
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Happy, happy, shall we be
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London Bridge is falling down

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My fair lady!

Ten Little Indians
One little, two little, three little Indians, Four little, five little, six little Indians,
Seven little, eight little, nine little Indians. Ten little Indian boys.

Days of the Week
Sunday, la- la – la Monday, la-la-la Tuesday, la-la-la Wednesday~
Thursday, la-la-la Friday, la-la-la Saturday. That makes a week.

Goodbye to You
Goodbye to you, goodbye to you
Goodbye my dear friend
I’ll see you again

Who’s Afraid of the Big Bad Wolf
Who’s afraid of the big bad wolf
Big bad wolf
Big bad wolf
Who’s afraid of the big bad wolf
Tra la la la la

How Much is that Doggie?
How much is that doggie in the window? *(arf! Arf!)*
The one with the waggley tail
How much is that doggie in the window? *(arf! Arf!)*
I do hope that doggie’s for sale

Two Little Eyes
Two little eyes that open and close
two little ears and one little nose
Two tittle checks and one little chin
two little lips with the teeth close in

ABC’s Song
A B C D E F G
H I J K L M N O P
Q R S and T U V
W and X Y Z
Happy, happy, shall we be
When we learn our ABC’s

Fly Bird Fly
Fly birdie fly
Fly birdie fly
Fly birdie fly
Up up to the sky
La-La-La-La-La-La-La-La-La-La-La-La

Twinkle, Twinkle, Little Star
Twinkle, twinkle, little star, How I wonder what you are
Up above the world so high, Like a diamond in the sky.
Twinkle, twinkle, little star, How I wonder what you are!

Round the Mulberry Bush
Here we go round the mulberry bush,
The mulberry bush, The mulberry bush.
Here we go round the mulberry bush
so early in the morning.

 

SING MORE SONGS AND POST FAKE ARTICLES

London Bridge is falling down

London Bridge is falling down,
Falling down, falling down.
London Bridge is falling down,
My fair lady!

Build it up with iron bars,
Iron bars, iron bars,
Build it up with iron bars,
My fair lady!

Iron bars will bend and break,
Bend and break, bend and break.
Iron bars will bend and break,
My fair lady!

Ten Little Indians
One little, two little, three little Indians, Four little, five little, six little Indians,
Seven little, eight little, nine little Indians. Ten little Indian boys.

Days of the Week
Sunday, la- la – la Monday, la-la-la Tuesday, la-la-la Wednesday~
Thursday, la-la-la Friday, la-la-la Saturday. That makes a week.

Goodbye to You
Goodbye to you, goodbye to you
Goodbye my dear friend
I’ll see you again

Who’s Afraid of the Big Bad Wolf
Who’s afraid of the big bad wolf
Big bad wolf
Big bad wolf
Who’s afraid of the big bad wolf
Tra la la la la

How Much is that Doggie?
How much is that doggie in the window? *(arf! Arf!)*
The one with the waggley tail
How much is that doggie in the window? *(arf! Arf!)*
I do hope that doggie’s for sale

Two Little Eyes
Two little eyes that open and close
two little ears and one little nose
Two tittle checks and one little chin
two little lips with the teeth close in

ABC’s Song
A B C D E F G
H I J K L M N O P
Q R S and T U V
W and X Y Z
Happy, happy, shall we be
When we learn our ABC’s

Fly Bird Fly
Fly birdie fly
Fly birdie fly
Fly birdie fly
Up up to the sky
La-La-La-La-La-La-La-La-La-La-La-La

Twinkle, Twinkle, Little Star
Twinkle, twinkle, little star, How I wonder what you are
Up above the world so high, Like a diamond in the sky.
Twinkle, twinkle, little star, How I wonder what you are!

Round the Mulberry Bush
Here we go round the mulberry bush,
The mulberry bush, The mulberry bush.
Here we go round the mulberry bush
so early in the morning.

 

SING MORE SONGS AND POST FAKE ARTICLES

London Bridge is falling down

London Bridge is falling down,
Falling down, falling down.
London Bridge is falling down,
My fair lady!

Build it up with iron bars,
Iron bars, iron bars,
Build it up with iron bars,
My fair lady!

Iron bars will bend and break,
Bend and break, bend and break.
Iron bars will bend and break,
My fair lady!

Ten Little Indians
One little, two little, three little Indians, Four little, five little, six little Indians,
Seven little, eight little, nine little Indians. Ten little Indian boys.

Days of the Week
Sunday, la- la – la Monday, la-la-la Tuesday, la-la-la Wednesday~
Thursday, la-la-la Friday, la-la-la Saturday. That makes a week.

Goodbye to You
Goodbye to you, goodbye to you
Goodbye my dear friend
I’ll see you again

Who’s Afraid of the Big Bad Wolf
Who’s afraid of the big bad wolf
Big bad wolf
Big bad wolf
Who’s afraid of the big bad wolf
Tra la la la la

How Much is that Doggie?
How much is that doggie in the window? *(arf! Arf!)*
The one with the waggley tail
How much is that doggie in the window? *(arf! Arf!)*
I do hope that doggie’s for sale

Two Little Eyes
Two little eyes that open and close
two little ears and one little nose
Two tittle checks and one little chin
two little lips with the teeth close in

ABC’s Song
A B C D E F G
H I J K L M N O P
Q R S and T U V
W and X Y Z
Happy, happy, shall we be
When we learn our ABC’s

Fly Bird Fly
Fly birdie fly
Fly birdie fly
Fly birdie fly
Up up to the sky
La-La-La-La-La-La-La-La-La-La-La-La

Twinkle, Twinkle, Little Star
Twinkle, twinkle, little star, How I wonder what you are
Up above the world so high, Like a diamond in the sky.
Twinkle, twinkle, little star, How I wonder what you are!

Round the Mulberry Bush
Here we go round the mulberry bush,
The mulberry bush, The mulberry bush.
Here we go round the mulberry bush
so early in the morning.

 

SING MORE SONGS AND POST FAKE ARTICLES

London Bridge is falling down

London Bridge is falling down,
Falling down, falling down.
London Bridge is falling down,
My fair lady!

Build it up with iron bars,
Iron bars, iron bars,
Build it up with iron bars,
My fair lady!

Iron bars will bend and break,
Bend and break, bend and break.
Iron bars will bend and break,
My fair lady!

Ten Little Indians
One little, two little, three little Indians, Four little, five little, six little Indians,
Seven little, eight little, nine little Indians. Ten little Indian boys.

Days of the Week
Sunday, la- la – la Monday, la-la-la Tuesday, la-la-la Wednesday~
Thursday, la-la-la Friday, la-la-la Saturday. That makes a week.

Goodbye to You
Goodbye to you, goodbye to you
Goodbye my dear friend
I’ll see you again

Who’s Afraid of the Big Bad Wolf
Who’s afraid of the big bad wolf
Big bad wolf
Big bad wolf
Who’s afraid of the big bad wolf
Tra la la la la

How Much is that Doggie?
How much is that doggie in the window? *(arf! Arf!)*
The one with the waggley tail
How much is that doggie in the window? *(arf! Arf!)*
I do hope that doggie’s for sale

Two Little Eyes
Two little eyes that open and close
two little ears and one little nose
Two tittle checks and one little chin
two little lips with the teeth close in

ABC’s Song
A B C D E F G
H I J K L M N O P
Q R S and T U V
W and X Y Z
Happy, happy, shall we be
When we learn our ABC’s

Fly Bird Fly
Fly birdie fly
Fly birdie fly
Fly birdie fly
Up up to the sky
La-La-La-La-La-La-La-La-La-La-La-La

Twinkle, Twinkle, Little Star
Twinkle, twinkle, little star, How I wonder what you are
Up above the world so high, Like a diamond in the sky.
Twinkle, twinkle, little star, How I wonder what you are!

Round the Mulberry Bush
Here we go round the mulberry bush,
The mulberry bush, The mulberry bush.
Here we go round the mulberry bush
so early in the morning.

 

SING MORE SONGS AND POST FAKE ARTICLES

London Bridge is falling down

London Bridge is falling down,
Falling down, falling down.
London Bridge is falling down,
My fair lady!

Build it up with iron bars,
Iron bars, iron bars,
Build it up with iron bars,
My fair lady!

Iron bars will bend and break,
Bend and break, bend and break.
Iron bars will bend and break,
My fair lady!

Ten Little Indians
One little, two little, three little Indians, Four little, five little, six little Indians,
Seven little, eight little, nine little Indians. Ten little Indian boys.

Days of the Week
Sunday, la- la – la Monday, la-la-la Tuesday, la-la-la Wednesday~
Thursday, la-la-la Friday, la-la-la Saturday. That makes a week.